The Cabernet Society | The Viticulturists

From our table to yours, a collection of five decades of moments with the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon as shared by our Cabernet Society in celebration of the 50th vintage release.

Author | Bart Molony, Chief Viticulturist Vasse Felix

I feel very privileged and humble to be growing grapes for the wine that was the first commercial red wine from the region. The lean soil from which these grapes are grown is the best suited. The gravel loam texture and underlying clay ensures the vines are perfectly balanced - healthy but not luxurious. Cabernet Sauvignon is a strong and vigorous cultivar and if grown on rich soil, it is a little too productive in both vegetation and yield, rarely reaching optimal ripeness with the resultant wines dominated by vegetative and herbaceous characters. 

Margaret River's climate is also key to the success of our Cabernet, the maritime influence of the Indian Ocean ensures that our ripening period is steady, allowing for full flavour development and the perfect balance between sugar, acidity and tannin ripeness in our grapes.

2010 was a special vintage for me. The vines were beautifully balanced and little intervention was required. Weather conditions were perfect, it was warm and dry but never too hot and the bird pressure was minimal. The 2010 Cabernet was harvested by hand at optimal ripeness and in fantastic condition. A standout vintage in my mind.

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Author | Ian MacDonald, Home Vineyard Manager Vasse Felix

I have a vivid memory of the first red wine I drank that sparked something deep within me, a sense of what a really good wine offers as an experience, the complex layers of aromas; flowers, fruit, spice and savoury characters, the way tannins and acids can harmonise on the palate allowing the wine to linger for oh so long. I didn't have the language or understanding then, but what I was experiencing was how a wine can express the place where it is grown when well made. There was something about the freshness of this Cabernet, it seemed alive, elegant yet powerful, far beyond the few wines I had tried up until that point. I knew I liked wine but this was an epiphany, a genuine 'aha' moment. This wine, a Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon, started me on my journey into exploring and learning about all things wine. Little did I know then, that 25 years later I would be managing the Estate's Home Vineyard in Wilyabrup. It gives me chills to think about it now.

Now embarking on my second season in Wilyabrup, the next stage of my journey is unfolding as I seek to understand the individual characters of the 20+ plots that craft the Vasse Felix Cabernet, and how best to farm this special place so the vines may truly express their individual terroir while maintaining the upmost respect and care for country - always remembering we are on Wadandi Boodja.

Cabernet is a resilient variety with a deep root system, however, to grow genuinely great Cabernet is certainly a challenge, a marriage between tannin and flavour ripeness while preventing excessive sugar levels. I am privileged to enjoy regular walks through the vineyard with both Virginia and Bart, where we discuss the finer details of growing Cabernet, culminating in my favourite time of year where we taste berries straight from the vine to make that all important decision of when to harvest our beautiful fruit.

Cabernet is indeed king, fresh and vibrant in it's youth, regal and wise with age. I am excited by my ongoing journey and growing relationship with Wilyabrup Cabernet and to discover how this 50th anniversary vintage evolves with time in bottle.

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More on 50 Years of Margaret River Cabernet here.

Margaret River 2023 Vintage Chardonnay Tasting

Last Friday, vignerons and winemakers from across Margaret River assembled in the Vasse Felix Art Gallery to explore the world of Margaret River Chardonnay, tasting unfinished barrel samples from the 2023 vintage, generously contributed by producers throughout the region. ⁠ 

Over 100 samples were contributed by 44 Margaret River producers for this insightful annual tasting. We were thrilled to see the largest turnout of viticulturists at this event to date, providing an interesting point of view considering the challenges of growing great Chardonnay.

Discussions on the 2023 vintage were led by Luke Jolliffe, Chief Winemaker at Stella Bella and Steve Kirby, Group Vineyard Manager at Howard Park, who both commented on the strength of the 2023 samples, despite unusual weather conditions. 

Wallcliffe samples were a particular standout of the tasting, with their characteristic 'al-dente' ripeness and incredible power and acid line.

Follow @vassefelixwines for more snaps from this collaborative Regional event.

Vasse Felix Hosts IWSC 2023 Margaret River Sundowner

Last week, for the first time, the International Wine and Spirits Competition (IWSC) travelled to Australia for an in situ judging event in Margaret River. In partnership with the Margaret River Wine Association, the expert judges were introduced to our Wine Paradise, exploring some of the region's key attractions in addition to tasting over 250 wines from local producers throughout the week.

We were delighted to host the IWSC Results Sundowner on Friday evening in the Vasse Felix Art Gallery, where more than 230 medals were awarded to Margaret River wines. As expected, the Region's hero varietals dominated the awards, of just over 20 golds, 11 were awarded to Chardonnay wines and 10 to Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Congratulations to all those awarded.

Master of Wine Alistair Cooper oversaw the judging panel which included international experts; Master of Wine Beth Pearce, Freddy Bulmer, Melania Battiston and Libby Brodie. They were joined by local Australian wine professionals – Randall Pollard, Erin Larkin, Chris Crawford and Emma Farrelly.

We were pleased to see four of our wines recognised in the awards;

2021 Filius Cabernet Sauvignon - Silver
2020 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon - Bronze
2022 Filius Chardonnay - Bronze
2021 Vasse Felix Chardonnay - Bronze

Discover more on the IWSC 2023 results here.

Images by Lauren Trickett.

Vasse Felix Makes Gourmet Traveller's Top 10 WA Restaurants

We are thrilled to have been included in the Top 10 Restaurants of WA as part of Gourmet Traveller's Annual Restaurant Guide, announced today.

"Caves Road – arguably the cradle of the Margaret River wine region – is rich in history, yet also plays home to forward-thinkers aplenty. Among the vanguard is Vasse Felix, a powerhouse estate comprising a modern art gallery, sleek tasting room and urbane restaurant overlooking the region's original vines. The kitchen maintains the progressive momentum with detailed dishes big on deliciousness. Jerusalem artichoke hash browns make perfect podiums for tuna belly sashimi, while kingfish is cured in miso and sake, showered in cubes of capsicum jelly then finished with shio koji-infused macadamia milk and makrut lime vinaigrette. Slow-roasted Wagin duck breast stuffed with chicken and bacon farce, meanwhile, benefits greatly from shiitake chutney and gingery blackberry sauce. Service is just as engaging as the marquee wine list, which caters to both traditional and contemporary tastes. Desserts, in the vein of weightless olive-oil cake cloaked by fine strips of persimmon "leather", maintain the high right to the end."

Peruse the full Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide here. Restaurant bookings are highly encouraged and can be made via this link.

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Vasse Felix Included in Wine and Spirits Magazine Top 100 Wineries of 2023

 

We are thrilled to have been named in US Wine & Spirits Magazine Top 100 Wineries, internationally, for 2023. Vasse Felix was one of only two Australian wineries included, alongside Penfolds, and the only from Margaret River.

Each year, Wine & Spirits creates this list based on wineries who have the most consistent performance and highest scores throughout the year, vetting thousands of producers in a two-step blind tasting to highlight the top 100 for their collections of outstanding wines.

In celebration of this accolade, Vasse Felix will be participating in the Wine & Spirits Top 100 Events in San Francisco on 11 October. 

The full list is available HERE.

Truffles Unearthed 2023 | An Evening with WA Good Food Guide

Guests were treated to the joys of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay paired with premium Manjimup black truffles last weekend as part of WA Good Food Guide 'Truffles Unearthed' dining series.

Hosted by Estate Sommelier Evan Gill, and the winemaking team, diners enjoyed a decadent five-course paired menu prepared by Head Chef Cam Jones, which included the Icon wines the 2021 Heytesbury Chardonnay and 2019 TOM CULLITY Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec as well as a museum 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. ⁠Enjoy some vignettes of the evening below.

Vale a Margaret River Great

We were deeply saddened to learn of the passing of Margaret River pioneer and Vasse Felix visionary, David Gregg late last week.

David was originally employed by Dr Tom Cullity to be the winemaker and manager of Vasse Felix in 1973. Living on the Estate, David and his wife, Ann, were the driving forces in the management of the business and made an enormous contribution to its development, while also raising three daughters. The Greggs would go onto purchase Vasse Felix in 1984 before selling it to today’s owners, the Holmes à Court family, in 1987.

(Pictured from L to R, David Gregg, Bob Holluck and Tom Cullity in 1975 inspecting vigorous Riesling canopies)

David was a visionary in the true sense of the word, laying the foundations for many milestone achievements at Vasse Felix. In 1987, he produced the first wine in Margaret River labelled “Classic Dry White,” coining the phrase which would go on to become a core regional asset. He was also the brains behind the Estate’s underground cellar, now The Vault; Vasse Felix’s wine museum.

In addition, David had a passion for sparkling wine, which he called his ‘jolly’. He made Vasse Felix’s first sparkling in 1985 and was the driving force behind what is now known as the Vasse Felix Restaurant, originally intended by David as a ‘Champagne Room’. The Restaurant was built in 1989 by the Holmes à Court family.

Fittingly, David and Ann Gregg were awarded the 2009 Margaret River Wine Association Lifetime Achievement Award, in honour of the significant contributions they have made to the Margaret River wine region.

We were thrilled to host David at the Estate’s 50th Anniversary dinner in 2017 (pictured below) where he spoke to these achievements and more.

Our condolences to Ann, Joanna, Kiersten and Rachel, and his many close family and friends. David will be sorely missed.

Stellar Reviews for Vasse Felix in the 2024 Halliday Wine Companion

We are thrilled with the excellent reviews of the entire Vasse Felix collection in the 2024 Halliday Wine Companion, released today. Five wines received 95 points or more, maintaining our 5-Star Red Winery Rating; 

"Outstanding winery regularly producing wines of exemplary quality and typicity. Will have at least two wines rated at 95 points or above, and has typically held a 5-star rating for the previous three years."

We were particularly excited to see both the 2019 TOM CULLITY and 2021 Heytesbury Chardonnay included in the Top Rated Wines of their varietal categories at 98 points apiece. 

The Margaret River Wine Region also performed exceptionally well as a whole in the 2024 Top Rated Cabernet Sauvignon and Family Collection.

Of the 88 wines included in the Top Rated Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Family categories, over a quarter (26) were from Margaret River. While in the Chardonnay Top Rated, the total of 54 Australian wines included no less then 13 Margaret River Chardonnays. An incredible testament to the quality of this region's core varieties, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

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Vasse Felix TOM CULLITY 2019 - 98 Points | GOLD RATED
Trepidation over tasting a flagship wine so young lasted a nanosecond before turning to “oh my, this is awesome”. In this seductive youthful stage, it’s fragrant with florals from violets to lavender, blueberries and bramble all wonderfully savoury with lots of warming spices. The palate offer charm, detail and excellent structure with velveteen tannins and a fine acid line to a long, long finish.

Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2021 -  98 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
Excellent fruit and second-to-none level of detail. This is an evocative wine. Funky sulphides rockin’ while a gossamer thread of acidity holds everything in line – the citrus flavours, the texture, the wine totally enveloping the oak and, while it’s a powerhouse of flavour, there’s a purity to this. It’s such a contrast. How does it achieve that? 

Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2021 - 93 Points
A tight, linear style with all manner of lemon and grapefruit flavours awash with tangy acidity. Lemon thyme pops up, a smidge of texture for good measure, and it builds with some white nectarine, a sprinkle of spice and oak judiciously integrated. This has precision and the right amount of complexity, so it’s moreish and ultimately very satisfying.

Vasse Felix DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay 2021 - 96 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
A new chardonnay and the note accompanying it states Virginia Wilcock and her team ‘were blown away by the jasmine florals, oyster-like salinity and a logic-defying limestone minerality, an outstanding parcel, too special not to share.’ Well, who am I to argue? It’s also linear, fine and long, a pure style without any new oak only excellent fruit and Usain Bolt-like acidity yet all wound up to create a savoury style. Funky, flinty and fabulous, too. Oh, by the way, DHJ1 stands for Darch vineyard J plot 1.
 

Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 - 96 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
A marker of great Cabernet is being seduced by the aromas and flavours, which need to be in harmony and lets not forget beautiful tannins matched to fine acidity. Does this fall into that class? Too right it does. Varietal flavours are pitch-perfect and not quite understated, this is a cabernet after all, and the result is a certain elegance and class. A gorgeous rendition.

Vasse Felix Syrah 2021 - 94 Points | SPECIAL VALUENot the easiest vintage in Margaret River, but you wouldn’t know it with this buoyant yet savoury offering. It’s highlighting the exuberance of youth with its poppy dark fruits all spiced and tarted up with cranberry juice flavour. As it opens in the glass more layers are revealed, the texture of fine sandy tannins and lots of them, there’s a stony quality in a positive way as this is still tight. Savoury, complex and appealing.

Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc 2021 - 95 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
Serious sauv blanc that’s seriously good, but not as you know it. Wild fermentation in oak with some skin contact creates a structured, savoury wine with an absence of overt tropical flavours. Instead, phenolics add shape and mouthfeel while textural tale-like acidity ensures this remains refreshing. It is complex, flavoursome and moreish.

Vasse Felix Filius Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 - 89 Points
A tight, leaner style off this vintage. It feels a little jangly with the acidity showing a brashness of youth and more time needed for it to behave. Cedary oak popping through the more savoury tones and tannins firm on the finish. Come back to this in a year or two. If you can, buy up the 2020 cabernet. It is a stunner.

Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay 2021- 90 Points
For a chardonnay reflecting regional attributes, and perhaps a bit of house style, this works well. It’s well made, managing the citrus, stone fruit and spice components with some funky sulphides and subtle oak. Good texture, too, and it’s one to enjoy without overthinking it.

Vasse Felix Filius Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2022 - 91 Points
A lot more going on here than many other SBS blends from the region this vintage, and that’s no BS either. Lots of citrus and distinct lime oil characters, some pastry (presumably from part of the wine being barrel fermented) with a lovely texture, all slippery, creamy with a little phenolic grip. A good drink without overcomplicating things.

Vasse Felix Filius Shiraz 2021 - 93 Points
Could there be any more spice packed into this? It’s a souk-like expression of cinnamon, pepper, fenugreek, cloves and … OK let’s stop there. All that is complemented by a wave of dark fruit, texture and richness of flavour. Lots of tannins but shapely and ripe. An impressive wine.

Vasse Felix Classic Dry Red 2021 - 91 Points | SPECIAL VALUE
Offering a decent balance of fruit to savouriness is part of the appeal of this simple, everyday drink. It’s spicy, laden with black plums and licorice and supple, giving tannins. No need to overthink this. Just pour and enjoy.

Vasse Felix Classic Dry White 2022 - 90 Points | SPECIAL VALUE
This is one of those well-made, uncomplicated yet subtle wines. It serves its purpose to provide enjoyment with its lemon-lime, melon and snow pea flavours, crisp acidity and refreshment guaranteed.
 

Cabin Fever | The Australian Woman's Weekly Cookbook Dinner

⁠Last weekend, guests were treated to an evening of cold-weather classics, brought into the 2020s at the Australian Women's Weekly Dinner as part of Cabin Fever.

Head Chef Cam Jones prepared a delicious five-course menu of nostalgic winter delights, reinvigorated with the Vasse Felix twist, paired with selections from our premier wine collection.⁠ Discover the menu below.

Tuna Mornay - Rottnest Tuna, Parmesan Custard, X.O Crumb, Black Bean, Wafu Dressing.
Paired with 2020 Idée Fixe Premier Brut

Apricot Pork Jowl - Pineapple Yakitori Glaze, Apricot Ginger & Black Garlic, Smoked Eel, Cabbage, Roast Spring Onion Oil.
Paired with 2021 Chardonnay

Quail A’lorange - Duck “Meatloaf” Stuffing, Blood Orange Cha Sui, Cranberry Jus.
Paired with 2021 Syrah

Pie & Mash - Beef Intercostal Octopus & Ox Kidney Pie, Wrapped in Spinach & Hot Water Pastry,
Smoked Potato Mousse, Mushroom X.O, Black Garlic Green Liquor.
Paired with 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon

Lamington - Sansho Pepper Fudge Glaze, Chocolate Fondant, Roasted Davidson Plum & Raspberry, White Chocolate Creme Fraiche mousse.
Paired with 2019 Cane Cut Semillon

 

 

Photo credit: JP Horre

Three Vasse Felix Wines in Ray Jordan's Top 100 Reds 2023

We were thrilled to see three of our wines included in Ray Jordan's Top 100 Reds 2023. Selected from 700 wines, the 2021 Classic Dry Red was selected for one of the best wines in the $15 - $20 price bracket, while the 2020 Filius Cabernet Merlot and 2021 Syrah were included in $25 - $40. Continue reading for Ray's full reviews and scores.

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$15 - $20
VASSE FELIX CLASSIC DRY RED SHIRAZ 2021 - Score: 94/100
This is always spot-on for the style and branding it has championed over the years. Beautifully soft and generous medium-bodied intensity with tonnes of ripe plummy fruit. A slightly chalky fine tannin and perfectly judged oak complements the delicious fruit. 

$15 - $40
VASSE FELIX FILIUS CABERNET MERLOT 2020 - Score: 94/100
This is part of a superb range of wines that provides highly immediate release drinking with a touch of class. This is from the excellent 2020 vintage and shows the fruit intensity and concentration that was part of it. It has an elegance and poise with a refined and structured palate feature. Beautiful weight and mouth feel. You could drink a heap of this now.

VASSE FELIX SYRAH 2021 - Score: 95/100
This is the result of a concerted effort to create a cool climate expression of shiraz, hence  the use of the name syrah. It’s from the southern vineyards and was wild fermented with some whole bunch fermentation and carbonic maceration. Bright red fruit with a lift of cranberry and pomegranate, spices and a trace of liquorice. Fine and stylishly elegant with a thoroughly engaging palate.