Margaret River 2024 Vintage Chardonnay Tasting

Last month, vignerons and winemakers from across the Margaret River region assembled in the Vasse Felix Art Gallery to explore the world of Margaret River Chardonnay, tasting unfinished barrel samples from the 2024 vintage, generously contributed by producers throughout the region. ⁠ 

This year, 136 samples were contributed by 44 Margaret River producers for this insightful annual tasting. The event attracted a wonderful turnout of viticulturists and winemakers, providing a great opportunity to share knowledge and experiences.

As with the Cabernet tasting earlier in the year, samples were provided from the “Provenance Project”, led by the Department of Primary Industry and Agriculture. The Provenance Project focuses on selecting different parcels of Gingin clone Chardonnay from various sites throughout Margaret River, then applying the same winemaking principles to each parcel, highlighting specific site differences.

Discussions on the 2024 vintage were led by Remi Guise (Naturaliste Vintners) and Mike Bolas (Fraser Gallop), who both commented on the strength of the 2024 samples, despite a short, sharp vintage.

After tasting the wines, Remi remarked on their exceptional balance. He emphasised that this balance is achieved through both intuitive viticulture and winemaking, along with the rigor and discipline that underpin these practices. This not only highlights the quality of the wines but also showcases the resilience of the Margaret River region.

Mike shared data indicating that the 2024 vintage wasn’t too dissimilar from warmer vintages in the past. He noted that, at the end of the day, the fruit was clean, fresh, and surprisingly physiologically ripe.

Follow @vassefelixwines for more snaps from this collaborative regional event.

11/10/2024 at 8:45 PM Permalink

Viticulturist of the Year and Outstanding Reviews in the 2025 Halliday Wine Companion

We are thrilled to announce that Chief Viticulturist, Bart Molony, has been named Viticulturist of the Year in the 2025 Halliday Wine Companion. A very well-deserved accolade for our vineyard leader and his team, who work tirelessly to raise the bar on fruit quality each year. Bart and his team caretake some of Margaret River's most important vineyard responsibilities across five sites for Vasse Felix and Idée Fixe, including the region's oldest Cabernet vines.

Upon receiving this award, Bart said "I feel privileged and honoured to be selected as this year's Viticulturist of the Year. I'd like to acknowledge the entire vineyard team at Vasse Felix, as this award also recognises their dedication and hard work, which has contributed to our success."

Bart has a passion for sustainable viticulture, where every practice is guided by a strong focus on vineyard biodiversity and responsible, natural farming practices. He promotes a constant focus on soil biology across all vineyards. During his 20 years at Vasse Felix, Bart has managed several significant vineyard expansions, including the Home Vineyard in Wilyabrup, the Karridale Vineyard and the Gnarawary Vineyard, adding over 100 hectares to the Vasse Felix Vineyard collection. We hope you will join us in congratulating Bart on this incredible achievement.

In the 2025 Halliday Wine Companion, five wines from the Vasse Felix collection received 95 points or more, maintaining a 5-Star Red Winery Rating; 

"Outstanding winery regularly producing wines of exemplary quality and typicity. Will have at least two wines rated at 95 points or above, and has typically held a 5-star rating for the previous three years."

Particular standouts were the 2022 Heytesbury Chardonnay and Chardonnay, 2020 TOM CULLITY, 2022 Syrah and 2023 Filius Sauvignon Blanc Semillon. See below for full results.

Vasse Felix TOM CULLITY 2020 - 97 Points | GOLD RATED
Winemaker Virginia Willcock worries about her flagship wines leaving the fold, as in Heytesbury Chardonnay and Tom Cullity, released too young, she says. And while she’s right, anyone buying them knows time will reward the patient. It’s built for ageing, but I’m impatient, and this Tom Cullity is youthful but also complete. Malbec, off the original plantings, comprises 16% of the blend; 3% petit verdot, too, is fundamental to the shape and flavour profile. Dark-fruited, meaty, spicy, complex, roasted chicory accented, floral and beguiling. Fuller bodied with exceptional tannins, all textural, expansive and long, working in tandem with the acidity to a long finish.

Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2022 -  97 Points | GOLD RATED
If one wine typifies the current state of Australian Chardonnay (complex, superfine, detailed and majestic) as much as a wine of place, Heytesbury could possibly be it. There’s a lot of fruit power this vintage, yet still, a tightly coiled style in youth. A millefeuille of flavour – grapefruit, lemon salt, white nectarine and complex savoury nuances, the oak and lees folded into the wine. There’s an intriguing zinc character too, a little flinty and funky with mouth-watering acidity. Moreish and compelling all the way through. Mesmerising.

Vasse Felix DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay 2022 - 95 Points | GOLD RATED 
A blush of gold; stone fruit, some lemon and grapefruit, a wet stone character a bit zinc-like. There’s flesh throughout, and it feels weightier and riper than its 12.5% alcohol. Then again, that’s the Gingin clone and this site. There’s also ginger spice and tangy acidity, so this is juicy and succulent. In a way, it’s pure, unadulterated chardonnay (wild fermented and only aged in used French oak barriques for eight months with another six months in tank), and while it will attain more complexity in time, it’s a wine for today.

Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 - 93 Points 
A round of applause is warranted as this is the 50th consecutive vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon from Vasse Felix and the inaugural 1972 wine, Margaret River’s first cabernet. Now, while Tom Cullity, the wine, has morphed into the flagship, this is nonetheless an important wine. A bit like Wynns Black label, it’s what brings people to the wine, the region and more. While ’21 was a difficult season – unusually humid and warm – this is pristine. Florals, mulberries, menthol, pepper, choc-mint and oak spice with cedary inputs. This is medium bodied with powdery tannins and puckering acidity; all will settle in time.

Vasse Felix Syrah 2022 - 95 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
Excellent, dark purple-red, and while it has a core of very good fruit – really popping thanks to some carbonic maceration – its outlook is super savoury. There's spicy, tangy, mouth-watering acidity, but the delight is its velvety tannins sashaying across the fuller-bodied palate.

Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2022 - 95 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
While this does not hold back on the flavour front, it still has electrifying acidity and detail, as is the way with this producer. It’s flinty, citrusy, tangy and juicy with the palate full of grapefruit and white peach and texture via a slip of luscious lees and high-toned oak, which is superbly integrated. It’s a chardonnay that offers immediate pleasure without a second thought, and, yet, it lingers, it’s seductive, and you want to come back for more. So I did.

Vasse Felix Sauvignon Blanc 2022 - 95 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
If you are expecting or, indeed, wanting a tropical, punchy wine, walk away. If you want a complex, layered, textural sauvignon blanc, stick around. Wild-yeast fermented in French oak foudre and oak puncheons with some skin contact, hence the pale gold hue and excellent phenolic tension on the palate. In the mix, quince paste, fennel flower and seeds, dried lemon-lime slices and some oatmeal biscuits. The palate is all about texture, layers of flavour and mouth-watering acidity. Classy and great on its own, even better with food.

Vasse Felix Filius Shiraz 2022 - 93 Points | SPECIAL VALUE
As usual, this is a spicy number and aromatic, full of dark plums, wafts of menthol and ironstone – there’s a lot going on. It’s savoury, with the palate fleshing out to full bodied with attractive silty tannins. Good drinking now.

Vasse Felix Filius Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2023 - 95 Points | GOLD RATED | SPECIAL VALUE
What’s great about this is it’s delicious to drink, and more than a glass, which is my usual cut-off point for this style. Everything in balance and nothing overt. Expect hints of lemon and preserved lemon, feijoa and crunchy star fruit. There’s mouth-watering acidity, a layer of texture with a light phenolic pull to the finish.

Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay 2023 - 89 Points
It’s a cuddly wine, rich with stone fruit and candied pear, ginger spice and woodsy spices, with a lick of cedary, sweet oak. It’s textural, appealing and uncomplicated.

Vasse Felix Classic Dry Red 2022 - 93 Points | SPECIAL VALUE
Punches above its weight given the price point. Expect a whorl of dark fruit all spiced up with a hint of eucalypt, cardamon and tamarind – a bit of an exotic edge this vintage. Fuller-bodied, inky with plush, ripe tannins and refreshing acidity rendering this gluggable right now. Get the wine glasses out.

Vasse Felix Classic Dry Rosé 2023 - 88 Points 
A touch of strawberry and cream, squishy raspberries and dried herbs make a convincing argument for this to be served chilled all summer. It’s also dry and refreshing. Nice one.

Vasse Felix Classic Dry White 2023 - 91 Points | SPECIAL VALUE
Ticks the 'easy to drink' box, plus the good value one, too. A combo of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc coming together to offer juicy fruit and a wisp of florals while tangy acidity leads a racy palate, a smidge of texture adding to the appeal.

08/08/2024 at 6:40 AM Permalink

The Peregrine - Winter 2024

Click here for the digital edition of 'The Peregrine - Winter 2024' magazine.

26/07/2024 at 12:22 PM Permalink

A Winter Recipe by Head Chef Cam Jones

MANCHEGO, PEAR PICCALILLI, PEPPER LEAF GOATS CHEESE MOUSSE, HAZELNUT, SOURDOUGH

By Head Chef Cam Jones 

Pairs wonderfully with the 2022 DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay

INGREDIENTS
Manchego
200g Manchego cheese

Pear Piccalilli
1 tbsp panch phoron (equal parts
nigella seeds, fennel seeds, cumin
seeds, fenugreek seeds)
½ tsp black mustard seed
½ tsp turmeric
30ml Extra virgin olive oil
1kg sliced pear flesh
A pinch of salt
200ml vinegar
100g sugar

Pepperleaf Goats Cheese Mousse
250g soft goats cheese
200ml cream
300ml milk
¼ tsp ground pepper
1 tsp xanthan gum
1 tbsp maltodextrin

Roasted Hazelnut
100g skinless hazelnuts

Sourdough Toast
1 loaf of day old sourdough
Olive oil
Sea salt

METHOD
Manchego
Take the rind off the cheese and dice into 1cm cube pieces. Blend the cubes in a food processor until “crumbly.”
Set aside in the fridge.

Pear Piccalilli
In a medium size pot lightly simmer panch phoron, black mustard seeds, turmeric and olive oil. Add pear and salt and cook until tender. Once tender, add vinegar and sugar and continue cooking until reduced by half.

Pepperleaf Goats Cheese Mousse
Blend all ingredients until smooth. In a mixing bowl whisk on high speed until peaks form (siphon gun can be
used for best results).

Roasted Hazelnut
Roast hazelnuts in a 160°C oven for 30-45 minutes or until lightly golden.

Sourdough Toast
Slice the sourdough as thin as possible. Place on a lined baking tray and brush lightly with olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. Cook in oven at 160°C for 20-30 minutes or until golden.

To Serve
Place 2 dessert spoons of Pear Piccalilli in the bottom of 4 bowls. Divide Manchego mixture into 4 and place on top of pear piccalilli. Add 4 dessert spoons of Goats Cheese. Finely grate hazelnut over Goats Cheese. Serve with sourdough toast on side. Enjoy.
 

18/06/2024 at 5:47 PM Permalink

THE CABERNET SOCIETY | PAUL HOLMES À COURT

From our table to yours, a collection of five decades of moments with the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon as shared by our Cabernet Society in celebration of the 50th vintage release.

Author | Paul Holmes à Court, CEO & Owner, Vasse Felix

In mid-1987, my father had the opportunity to purchase Vasse Felix from David Gregg. He sent my mother and I down to Margaret River to do some sort of inspection, even though we all knew what was going to happen. Sure enough, the purchase was successful, and from then on, there was a distinct increase in the amount of Vasse Felix that found its way to our dining table at home, and it was invariably the Cabernet Sauvignon. It was my father's favourite wine then, and it is my favourite now. 

One of the most memorable vintages for me was the 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon. I remember clearly because there's a great back story to it. After entering the wine in the World Trade Fair in London in early 1987, David Gregg was approached by Woodside Petroleum with an offer to purchase the entire vintage for use as corporate gifts. Short of cash, David thought it was a great deal, so he took it.  

Famously, the wine went on to win the trophy for Best Red Wine at the Fair, but there was no wine left to sell! After my father purchased Vasse Felix later that year, we discovered that David had earlier shipped a small parcel of the wine to the UK. We went into the secondary market and bought back as much as we could. We have some of those bottles in the cellar still.

Margaret River Cabernet has always held a special place in my heart. As Winemaker David Gregg said, "To be honest, Cabernet was always king, it was the first priority in everything." 

Nothing has changed. The success of everything at Vasse Felix hinges on this one wine. If it is strong, everything else will be fine.
 

12/06/2024 at 1:30 PM Permalink

MARGARET RIVER REGION 2023 VINTAGE CABERNET TASTING

On Friday 3 May, vignerons and winemakers from across the Margaret River region gathered in the Vasse Felix Art Gallery to explore the world of Margaret River Cabernet, tasting unfinished barrel samples from the 2023 vintage, generously contributed by producers throughout the region. ⁠ 

This year, an incredible 133 samples were shared by 44 Margaret River producers for this insightful annual tasting, which provided a wealth of invaluable insight into the 2023 vintage.

Guest speaker Ray Fokkema from Churchview Estate led the discussion, describing 2023 as a typical, cooler Margaret River vintage, with good dormancy and bud burst, minimal rain between December and March along with dry and warm conditions and no disease pressure. Overall the 2023 vintage looked promising. 

The region did experience some bird pressure due to the limited amount of Marri Blossom at that time, necessitating the use of netting.

Our second guest speaker, Richard Fennessey from the Agricultural Department of WA, provided further insights into the 2023 vintage and his ongoing research and development projects. Richard shared trial wines from one fascinating project, called 'The Provenance Project' where he aims to discover relationships between site attributes and wine quality.

We extend our gratitude to everyone involved in making this event a success, it is always exciting to share the unique stories that each vintage tells and we look forward to the next one. 

17/05/2024 at 6:35 PM Permalink

THE CABERNET SOCIETY | DAVE PYNT

From our table to yours, a collection of five decades of moments with the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon as shared by our Cabernet Society in celebration of the 50th vintage release.

Author | Dave Pynt, Chef/Owner, Burnt Ends 

I always remember family trips to Margaret River over Christmas, It's hot, dry and you spend most of your time going between vineyards and the beach. We would inevitably always have a long lunch at Vasse Felix and end up drinking some amazing old bottles when it came to main course. It would always amaze me how long Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon can age for and how they retain their structure, flavour and fruit. When the team head to the cellar and pick something special, it is always a treat, but finding out it is the last bottle onsite always leaves a longing for more. I guess that keeps you exploring the cellar to find the hidden gems! We always look forward to the next time and doing some cellar hunting with the team!
 
With Cabernet, I am always looking for age. It brings out the subtleties, complexity, balance and fruit while softening the tannins. With food, it is really important to soften the tannins so that you avoid overpowering the food. We have found that with grilled meats, drinking wines with tannins increases the astringency in the mouth which can be quite unpleasant. But on that note, grilled meats with nicely aged Cabernets can lead to a harmonious pairing that highlights the flavours on both sides perfectly.
 
The only thing to add, is that it will always taste better when you are having a BBQ on a hot summer's night in Margies. If people get the opportunity, this is a must-do!
 

07/05/2024 at 4:30 PM Permalink

Introducing the 2020 TOM CULLITY

Introducing a commanding and cerebral Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec from an exemplary Margaret River vintage. Or in the words of a local Western Australian critic, “a superstar.”

As always, TOM CULLITY is a pure reflection of the vintage in Margaret River, grown on Tom’s original vines, that were 53 years old at the time of harvest.

2020 began as a warmer season, but cooled soon after the white grape harvest, providing ideal conditions for gentle extended ripening of the Cabernet. Vibrant fruit characters were preserved, forming the wine’s buoyant core, while the tannins matured on the vine, beautifully. The “triple threat” of this release is the concentration of 2020’s lower yield, that produced this hallmark Cabernet of intensity and depth, within a Margaret River framework.

“The foreground of delicious, enticing perfumes and powerful fruit is arresting, but for me it’s how this intensity is interwoven so intricately with savoury elements. While 2020 is the most full-bodied release of the modern TOM CULLITY story, its mellifluous mid-palate and effortless tannins offer so much upon release, with decades ahead,” Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock.

Tom’s old plots were hand-harvested from 6 – 27 March, then wild fermented as whole berries and left on skins for up to 29 days. The wine was basket-pressed and gently transferred to 54% new and 46% old French oak, the portion of old oak complementing the 2020 Cabernet form. The parcels of wine were aged on yeast lees, the barriques relaxing with only minimal requirement for rack and return throughout maturation. After 18 months, the 2020 TOM CULLITY was composed and bottled. This vintage is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot.

2020 was a memorable vintage in more ways than one. With national and regional shutdowns in effect towards the end of harvest, Tom’s Cabernet plots (H, I, J & L) were hand-picked and nurtured through their vinification purely by the permanent Vasse Felix team, including enthusiastic helpers from our wonderful Hospitality crew. The ‘Tom’ is always a wine that unifies everyone at Vasse Felix, and this TOM CULLITY in particular, is very close to our hearts.

This is the eighth release of TOM CULLITY, a living tribute to Dr Tom Cullity’s extraordinary legacy; embodying the pioneering, innovative and brave spirit that led to the establishment of the Margaret River Wine Region.

01/05/2024 at 6:00 AM Permalink

The Vintage Report | 2024

BY CHIEF VITICULTURIST BART MOLONY & CHIEF WINEMAKER VIRGINIA WILLCOCK

The 2024 vintage in Margaret River will be remembered for its unprecedented early start and rapid pace. Growing Degree Days data indicated from the outset that this vintage would be early, with vines showing health and vigour in spring. Despite initial disbelief, harvest began on 17 January and progressed quickly, with the last of the vines picked on 13 March. This has been a truly remarkable vintage, even with the early start and very warm, consistent conditions, the quality of the fruit is excellent and beyond our expectations.

The vines experienced an accumulation of incredible growing conditions, starting with an early onset to spring which then merged almost directly into summer. Unlike recent years, where spring was often cooler, 2023 was the warmest spring we can remember, with below-average rainfall. Due to this, we experienced early flowering and veraison. The summer was characterised by zero rainfall and sustained warmth, but with no extremes, ensuring the majority of the fruit ripened without damage.

Harvest commenced in mid-January, much earlier than anticipated, with our Wilyabrup Chardonnay. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were highlights of the white harvest, showcasing ideal balance and flavour. Careful timing and precision in harvesting were critical to balance logistics and to ensure all fruit was picked at its optimal ripeness. Yields were slightly lower for our Sauvignon Blanc due to a small amount of sunburn early in its development.

Following the white harvest, we commenced picking the reds the very next day, starting with Shiraz from our northern vineyards. The warm conditions persisted, leading once again to an earlier-than-expected harvest for Cabernet Sauvignon, four weeks earlier than average. The Cabernet fruit is showing beautifully ripe fruit flavours, firm tannins, and great balance.

The red yields were also slightly lower, particularly from vines grown on harder soils with lower moisture retention, which struggled to access sufficient water. However, vine health remained excellent, right through to harvest, with no signs of deterioration. This can be attributed to the resilience of the vines, an earlier harvest and meticulous vineyard practices.

This year the Marri blossom was phenomenal. Nobody we’ve spoken to in the district has ever seen the trees flower as prolifically as they did. The blossom was extraordinary and the smell of honey in the air was quite incredible. This, of course, was great for our vines, keeping bird pressure to almost zero, as the birds favour the nectar of the Marri blossom over the grapes. This abundance also made harvesting our Cane Cut Semillon a more pleasant task as the bees and wasps were nowhere to be seen.

As harvest comes to an end, we are still in shock that it is only the second week of March, it is just so surreal. The 2024 vintage in Margaret River will certainly be one to remember. The early start and rapid pace challenged our viticulturists and winemakers, however a persistent and intense harvest schedule and rigorous attention to detail resulted in wine of astonishing quality. The resilience of the vines in the face of such extraordinary conditions is a testament to the Region’s viticultural prowess.

10/04/2024 at 6:19 PM Permalink

Decanting Cabernet, Tips by Estate Sommelier Evan

It's always exciting to enjoy a wine that's been in your cellar for years. You've been patiently waiting to drink this special bottle and you want to be sure it's in the best possible condition when you serve it. Estate Sommelier, Evan Gill, takes us through the process of decanting and its importance for both young and old wines.  

~

Young, structured and powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, even the most poised, balanced and elegant Margaret River wines, can benefit from decanting in their young age. Through the introduction of oxygen, decanting can help bring to life complex components that have been 'trapped' in the bottle. Allowing oxygen into a young Margaret River Cabernet is like sunlight to a young vine in spring, it helps to open up the beautiful flavour compounds and structural elements of the wine.

Aged wines, 10 years and older, tend to accumulate sediment over time when cellared. Whilst it's an important piece of a good aged Cabernet, it's best to decant these wines before serving to remove the sediment. 

Evan's Decanting Tips

1. Stand the bottle upright before decanting so the sediment may fall to the bottom.

2. Pour the wine steadily into your decanter, fast enough to allow a steady stream without causing excessive bubbling of the wine. Stop pouring when the sediment reaches the neck of the bottle. 

3. Allow the wine to breathe in the decanter, this can mean anything from a couple of minutes to perhaps one hour. Discretion is advised with older wines (20 years or so) so as to not aerate the wine too much.

4. Taste the wine and watch it come to life!

14/03/2024 at 1:42 PM Permalink