Cellaring and Serving TOM CULLITY | By Estate Sommelier Evan Gill

The 2021 TOM CULLITY—the ninth release of this highly coveted Australian icon—is now available. Perhaps you’ve already secured a bottle, or even a full allocation of six? Or maybe you’re still considering it. If you have, congratulations on acquiring a piece of this world-renowned bottling. The two preceding vintages were gone within weeks of their releases in 2023 and 2024, and this vintage looks set to continue that trend. 

A question often asked here at the Estate, particularly at the Cellar Door tasting bar, is “when should I enjoy this beauty?”. The answer, in the case of the 2021 TOM CULLITY, is both simple and mildly perplexing. Simply put, there is never a bad time to open a bottle of TOM CULLITY, given its inherent elegance, finesse, and finely structured nature. The 2021 vintage also has a lifted freshness and a beautifully velvety, cashew-like texture on release. How could you not enjoy this wine right now? Now to the mildly perplexing notion, in my humble opinion, this wine is only set to improve with time in the cellar. Yet, it is a rarity for a wine to be so exquisitely composed, balanced and enjoyable at four years of age, while also possessing the potential to evolve, unfurl and transform over decades. This incredible duality is a testament to the nurturing, sustainable farming philosophy applied to our oldest and finest Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec vines, as well as the minimal-intervention approach of Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock.

If, like me, you’ve purchased the 2021 TOM CULLITY to enjoy now and in the years to come, there are some things you can do to ensure that every time you open a bottle it looks its best. If imbibing in the next one to ten years, I recommend standing the bottle upright for a few hours prior to opening. Sediment is unlikely to accrue within ten years but it’s always better safe than sorry, standing the bottle allows gravity to pull any sediment to the base and into the ring of the punt. The sediment will then be contained within the last few millilitres of wine and can easily be left behind when pouring. If you plan to enjoy this wine in ten years or later. I recommend standing the wine for 24 hours or so, as more sediment is likely.

Decanting structured Cabernet Sauvignon is a worthy consideration at any stage of the wine’s life. For the 2021 TOM CULLITY however, I only recommend a short time in decanter, around 30 minutes or less. The nature of this wine does not necessitate extended aeration and remember, pouring from bottle to decanter, then decanter to glass, beautifully aerates and opens the wine anyway. More careful decanting will only be required when opening this wine post 2036 or thereabouts, as leaving any sediment behind in bottle will ensure the wine’s texture is silky smooth. The true definition of decanting is the separation of a wine from its spent tannins and phenols (ie: sediment) rather than aeration. 

One last tip, be sure to serve this wine in glassware with a lovely wide bowl and slightly tapering shoulder, to fully reveal its remarkably pure and vibrant aromas and flavours.

MARGARET RIVER REGION 2024 VINTAGE CABERNET TASTING

On Friday 9 May, vignerons and winemakers from across the Margaret River region gathered at Vasse Felix once again for the annual Regional Cabernet Tasting, exploring unfinished barrel samples from the 2024 vintage. This collaborative tasting featured 94 samples from 44 Margaret River producers, offering valuable insights into the 2024 vintage across the region.

This year’s guest speakers included Ian MacDonald, Home Vineyard Manager at Vasse Felix and Andrew Bretherton, Head Winemaker at Juniper Estate.

Ian spoke of the 2024 vintage as the earliest, hottest, and driest on record, with 1993 being the most comparable year. Despite the extreme conditions, it was described as a dream season from a vineyard management perspective – with low disease and pest pressure and excellent marri blossom, resulting in minimal netting. However, heatwaves during flowering and fruit set led to lower yields and concerns with acid retention. The vintage demanded close attention to tannin ripeness and harvest timing, but Cabernet proved its resilience, reinforcing its reputation as the star of Margaret River – producing wines of power, elegance, and finesse even in testing conditions. The exceptional wines in the room offered proof.

Andrew reflected on his first vintage at Juniper Estate, describing it as a steep learning curve in a demanding season. In such conditions, a careful and considered approach in the winery was essential. He highlighted the importance of adapting viticultural practices for heat resilience and noted that despite the challenges, the 2024 wines displayed vibrant fruit, freshness, perfume, typicity, and approachability. Andrew encouraged the room to reflect on the season with pride and view it as a valuable opportunity for learning and growth.

Attendees also had the opportunity to taste a fascinating clonal trial presented by Richard Fennessey from the Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development WA. The wines – made under identical conditions from the same site – showcased a diverse range of Cabernet Sauvignon clones. The distinct characteristics expressed by each clone offered a remarkable insight into their individual contributions to style and structure.

Thank you to all who contributed to this year’s tasting. It’s a privilege to come together as a region to share insights and celebrate the distinct character of each vintage. We look forward to continuing the conversation at the next one.

Beef with Mushrooms by Head Chef Cam Jones

BEEF WITH MUSHROOMS, ONION TAPIOCA, KELP & BEEF FAT PEPPER SAUCE

INGREDIENTS
SERVES 4

TSUKUDANI KELP
A
1 x A3 size piece of rehydrated kelp*, thinly sliced.
*soak in room temp water for 2 hours to rehydrate.
B
45ml sake
45ml mirin
45ml rice wine vinegar
70ml soy sauce
20g raw sugar

METHOD
Combine B in saucepan, add A and simmer kelp until soft. Set aside.

RED WINE ONION & TAPIOCA
A
15ml canola oil
10ml water
15g raw sugar
Pinch of salt
8 x cups diced brown onion
B
500ml Classic Dry Red wine
10ml red wine vinegar
10ml fish sauce
20g brown sugar
2 x bay leaves
C
60g small tapioca pearls

METHOD
Place A in a pot and sweat on low until soft for 45-60 minutes.
Add B and simmer on low for 40 minutes until alcohol has evaporated.
Add C and continue cooking on low until tapioca is soft.
Remove from heat, add bay leaves, adjust seasoning with salt. Set pot aside with lid on, keep warm.

BEEF FAT & CAVIAR JUS
A
10g canola oil
20g ginger (finely chopped)
10g garlic (finely chopped)
1 x chopped onion
1 stem of spring onion whites, sliced
B
40g oyster sauce
25ml light soy sauce
100ml Shaoxing cooking wine
500ml chicken stock reduction*
*Reduce 3Lt of chicken stock to 500ml
5g ground black pepper
5ml sesame oil
C
50g rendered beef fat or butter
1 tbsp freshly cracked black pepper
30g caviar**

METHOD
Place A in pot and sweat off until golden, add B and simmer on low for 45 minutes. Pass through a fine strainer.
Stir through beef fat and pepper from C until warm. Before serving, stir through caviar.**
**Do not overheat once caviar is in, to avoid cooking it.

SAUTEED MUSHROOMS
100g sliced oyster mushrooms
100g sliced shitake mushrooms
2 tbsp EVOO
30g butter
20ml soy sauce
20ml oyster sauce

METHOD
Sear mushrooms with EVOO in a pan until they colour, add butter & allow it to foam. Add the sauces, then set aside somewhere warm.

BEEF
4 x 250-300g steaks of your choice (room temperature)

METHOD
Coat in olive oil, black pepper & salt. Cook on medium high heat until medium rare (2-3 mins each side or when internal temp is at 54°C).
Rest before serving.

To Serve
Spoon the onion tapioca onto the base of a bowl plate, cover the tapioca by placing the mushrooms on top. Arrange the kelp on top of the mushrooms, then place your beef atop the kelp. Generously cover the beef with the warmed caviar pepper sauce and serve. Best enjoyed with the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon.

Introducing the 2021 TOM CULLITY

Introducing the 2021 TOM CULLITY, a wine of effortless grace and unrivalled provenance, from the oldest vines in Margaret River.

2021 marked 50 years of Cabernet Sauvignon winemaking at Vasse Felix, a legacy founded on the vision of pioneers who recognised Margaret River’s extraordinary potential. This elegant release honours their foresight, embodying the philosophy that defined our earliest wines: Tom Cullity and David Gregg “sought to craft a red wine that was light on the palate, modest in alcohol, and reminiscent of a fine Bordeaux, in contrast to a ‘powerful Australian red’.” ¹

Tom’s vines allow us to make a wine of remarkable depth and distinction. The grapes are reflective of, but unphased by seasonal conditions. 2021 was a variable vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon across Margaret River and by many accounts, a season where vine location, maturity and deliberate and intricate canopy management was vital, following a cool, wet November and humid growing conditions.

For some, cyclonic activity impacted harvest times. While it was a consideration for Tom’s plots, their harvest timing – 30 March to 9 April – was predetermined by the plump (red-spectrum) fruit flavours and resolved satin tannins, rather than the weather forecast.

Picking grapes for ‘the Tom’ is always a highlight at Vasse Felix, with team members from viticulture to hospitality donning gloves and a pair of secateurs to help make another historic wine from these significant vines, aged 54 years at the time.

The ubiquitous knoll in the heartland of Wilyabrup that Dr Cullity searched for relentlessly, has once again proven its alchemy. “This is my dream texture. And it’s so deep. It’s luscious, intense, multifaceted, plush and comfortable without being heavy,” Chief Winemaker, Virginia Willcock.

Tom’s plots were hand-harvested, wild fermented as whole berries and left on skins for up to 28 days. A healthy wild yeast population fostered harmonious natural fermentation, enhancing the wine’s character. The wine was basket pressed and transferred to 68% new and 32% 2-4-year-old French oak barriques, where it aged on yeast lees for 16 months prior to bottling. The tannins are delicate and refined and hold an enduring strength, ensuring this wine will evolve beautifully over the next 15+ years. The 2021 TOM CULLITY is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Malbec.

As always, this wine stands as a testament to Dr Tom Cullity’s vision – to create the best possible wine from this remarkable land – a vision that continues to be realised in every bottle of TOM CULLITY.

¹ Gary Cullity and David Gregg, Vasse Felix 1973-1987 (2014).

The Vintage Report | 2025

BY CHIEF VITICULTURIST BART MOLONY & CHIEF WINEMAKER VIRGINIA WILLCOCK

A moderate season of patience and precision. As with all Margaret River vintages, the influence of spring was paramount in shaping the season. After a delayed onset, winter rains finished strongly, with August recording the highest rainfall on record. Spring precipitation tapered off, with September receiving well-below average rainfall, and drier conditions continued to summer. Growing season temperatures were on average, providing healthy conditions, aligning closely with those of 2021 and 2022. The season’s rhythm was marked by alternating cycles of warm, sunny days followed by cooler, sometimes overcast conditions.

The impact of the previous vintage’s early and dry conditions was evident, particularly in vine responses. Some vines showed uneven growth and a reduced capacity for vigour. Chardonnay, in particular, demonstrated signs of confusion due to the prior season’s early and dry conditions, with many vines experiencing an initial burst of growth before pausing. This led to an extended development phase, pushing veraison into mid to late January, interestingly, aligning with Cabernet.

Harvest commenced on 6 February, beginning with some earlier ripening and evenly cropped Chardonnay. The picking period extended over four weeks from Carbunup to Wallcliffe, with the most critical and intricate harvesting decisions concentrated in the middle and final two weeks of February, when we harvested the core of our premier and icon Chardonnay. Precision was key, as patience allowed the fruit to achieve balance in flavour, acidity, and sugar. Chardonnay was in exceptional condition.

Sauvignon Blanc thrived, benefiting from well-structured canopies and steady ripening, which contributed to excellent flavour development. Semillon also delivered an impressive crop, ripening evenly in moderate conditions during the tail end of the white harvest. From 6 February to 13 March, during the entire white harvest, only 10mm of intermittent rainfall was recorded.

This year’s hand-harvest window was notably shorter, spanning just 17 days, compared to 23 days in 2024 and 24 days in 2023. Wilyabrup experienced a later start, while Karridale’s harvest extended across the entire window. From February to 13 March, only intermittent drizzle occurred, below the long term average.

The red harvest commenced on 11 March with Merlot, followed closely by small parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Leading into the red harvest, conditions were ideal – classic autumnal weather with cool nights and warm, sunny days. A brief interruption to harvest occurred on 13-14 March from a rain event, and fortunately, only 14-18mm fell across the vineyards. From mid-March onwards, the season settled into consistently warm and dry conditions, with the last week of March shaping up to be one of the warmest in decades. This created an ideal environment for the final stages of ripening and handpicking our premier and icon Cabernet.

With a beautifully moderate growing season and careful patience exercised in harvest timing, the 2025 vintage is emerging as a vintage of precision and promise.

WA Good Food Guide Regional Chef of the Year 2025 - Cam Jones

Huge congratulations to Head Chef Cam Jones and the entire Kitchen & Restaurant teams - Cam has been named Regional Chef of the Year and Vasse Felix has been awarded a coveted 3-Star rating at the WA Good Food Guide Restaurant Awards. 

From the judges: "When the top job at a restaurant as revered as Vasse Felix changes hands, there's mountains of expectation and pressure at play. But, in his two years at the helm (and counting), Cameron Jones has demonstrated his own brand of creativity and flair, consistently delivering what was this year described as a 'decidedly modern riot of flavours.' Jones clearly understands the mission of a truly great winery restaurant, which is to be part of an ecosystem with wine at its heart but nor has he let that wider concern hold him back creatively."

An incredible achievement, congratulations Cam.

James Suckling Top 100 Wines Australia 2024

We are honoured that our two icon wines, the 2020 TOM CULLITY and the 2023 HEYTESBURY Chardonnay, have been recognised among James Suckling's 2024 Top 100 Wines of Australia.⁠

"This year’s Top 100 Wines of Australia highlights the steady evolution of the country's top offerings, which continue to impress with their elegance, balance and regional character." James Suckling.

#24 - 2023 HEYTESBURY Chardonnay⁠ (97 Points)
"An intensely complex and inviting nose with aromas of lemon curd, grapefruit rind, orange blossoms and gunsmoke. The medium-bodied palate has a textural mouthfeel and vivid acidity, showing notes of lime zest, mandarin pith, fresh pineapple and cookies. Multidimensional and giving with an underlying tension. Exceptional." 

#40 - 2020 TOM CULLITY⁠ (97 Points)
"The nose is wonderfully complex and perfumed with aromas of blackcurrants, violets, wild blackberries, graphite and eucalyptus. The full-bodied palate has seamless tannins and focused acidity, giving notes of mulberries, mocha, dried herbs and saltbush. Very refined and polished with an underlying power. Made from a blend of 81% cabernet sauvignon, 16% malbec and 3% petit verdot. Excellent." 

Link to article

HEYTESBURY Chardonnay in the TOP 100 - Wine Enthusiast Magazine and Vinous

The celebrations continue as The 2022 HEYTESBURY Chardonnay has been featured in the prestigious Wine Enthusiast and Vinous publications Top 100 wine lists for 2024. 

The 2022 HEYTESBURY Chardonnay has been honoured with the #10 spot in The Enthusiast 100: The Best Wines of 2024 by Wine Enthusiast magazine.⁠ This prestigious list was selected from over 23,000 international wines, tasted blind. The Top 100 highlights wines from 68 appellations across 36 regions worldwide.⁠
⁠
"2022 was on the warm side and this bottling of one of Margaret River's top Chards offers less of the reductive struck match and roasted-nut aromas of past vintages. It instead displays pithy citrus and melon rind, oats and salty seashell aromas, with a slight metallic edge. Round and textured, but with lovely acidity throughout, the concentrated fruit, oak and malolactic influences are all in perfect harmony. This may not be the longest-lived Heytesbury, but it's a damn fine drop now."
96 Points - Christina Pickard

Link to article 

The 2022 HEYTESBURY Chardonnay has also been named in the Top 100 Wines of 2024 in US publication, Vinous, selected from over 30,000 international wines tasted this year. ⁠
⁠
"Under the guidance of talented Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock, the iconic Heytesbury Margaret River Chardonnay soars in the 2022 vintage with tightly coiled power and outstanding complexity. A beautiful energy, precision and underlying tension work in tandem with stunning intensity and savoury refinement to deliver a world-class Chardonnay experience."⁠
96 Points - Angus Hughson ⁠

Link to article

Szechuan Glazed Pork by Head Chef Cam Jones

SZECHUAN GLAZED PORK WITH COCONUT, PEAR, KAILAN & BLACK OIL

INGREDIENTS
SERVES 4

PORK & KAILAN
1 kg pork belly (prepare 24hrs prior)
1 tablespoon oil
1 tablespoon sea salt
12 leaves Kailan (Chinese broccoli)

BLACK SESAME & BLACK GARLIC OIL
(prepare 24hrs prior)
50g black sesame seeds (toasted)
50g black garlic
20g charcoal powder
250g grapeseed oil

method
Blend all ingredients for 1 minute. Let the oil sit overnight at room temperature, then strain through a fine cloth and keep at room temperature.

COCONUT PARSNIP SAUCE
(prepare 2hrs prior)

A
400ml coconut milk
20g sliced ginger
6g black pepper
4g Szechuan pepper
4g pink pepper
250g grated parsnip

B
25g rice vinegar
40g soy sauce
30g white miso paste

method
Bring A to scalding (around 70°C), cover, and allow to stand for 2 hours. Strain the mixture and whisk in B and keep warm on a low heat until service.

PEAR & GINGER RELISH

A
500g sliced pear
1L pear juice
40g lemon juice

B
1 onion, finely sliced
30g minced ginger
100g vegetable oil

C
20g miso
70g fish sauce
1 tsp ground white pepper

method
Peel and slice the pears, then place them into the pear juice to prevent oxidation. Sweat the ingredients in B on low heat for 30 minutes or until soft. Add A and C, and simmer for 30–60 minutes, until service.

SZECHUAN GLAZE
125ml mirin
125ml soy sauce
75ml sake
20g brown sugar
1 tsp black peppercorns
2 spring onions, cut into batons
1 garlic clove
10g ginger
4g Szechuan pepper

method
Place all ingredients in a saucepan and reduce by half. Strain the mixture and set aside.
24 hours prior, pat the PORK BELLY dry, score the skin and leave uncovered in the fridge overnight to dry out the skin.
24 hours prior, prepare the BLACK SESAME & BLACK GARLIC OIL
2 hours prior, prepare the COCONUT PARSNIP SAUCE
Preheat the oven to 240°C. Place the PORK BELLY on a wire rack in a roasting pan.
Pour boiling water over the skin, then pat dry. Discard the water. Rub the pork with oil and season well with salt.
Roast for 40 minutes at 240°C until the crackling turns golden, then lower the temperature to 180°C and cook for another 20 minutes.
While the Pork is roasting, prepare the PEAR & GINGER RELISH, and then the SZECHUAN GLAZE.
Allow the pork to rest for 10 minutes before slicing into four portions.

To Serve
Brush 12 leaves of Kailan with the Szechuan Glaze and quickly flash in a pan. Set aside.
Place two dessert spoons of Pear & Ginger relish on the bottom of the bowl.
Pour 60ml of the Coconut Parsnip sauce over the relish and drizzle with black sesame oil.
Add a slice of pork brushed with Szechuan glaze, then drape three leaves of kailan over the dish and serve.

2020 TOM CULLITY named ‘Wine of the Year’ in Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Review 2025

We are thrilled to announce that the 2020 TOM CULLITY has been named ‘Wine of the Year’ in Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Review 2025.

The WA Wine Review 2025 is the third edition of this annual publication, showcasing the best wines being produced in Western Australia.

Ray Jordan said:

“The best wines are a testament to creative and rigorous winemaking and viticulture that reflect a total commitment to quality. A quality that has never been better.”

On the 2020 TOM CULLITY, Ray said:

“In just eight vintages, beginning with 2013, the Tom, as it is referred to around the winery, has set the bar high for this combination of varieties in a style that can be traced right back to the first tentative steps from [Tom] Cullity who wanted to pursue an elegant modern Australian wine style.

“I have waited for this release with great anticipation. I expected it to be good. I just didn’t expect it to be quite so good.

"So, let’s put some perspective on it with previous vintages. I had always rated 2018, from that other memorable vintage, as the best of the Toms, with the ’14 a close second and the ’19 from an underrated vintage in the mix as well. Every time I look at that ’19 it just gets better.

“The ’20 has taken the wine into rarefied air and is in my opinion the best Tom yet. The combination of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and a tiny amount of petit verdot come together so seamlessly and exquisitely to produce a wine of power, finesse and elegance.”

2020 TOM CULLITY

“Oh yeah. I expected this to be good and it has delivered. I see the power and concentration of 2018 and the elegance of 2019 with the restraint of 2017. Beautiful, perfumed fruit with tremendous intensity. The palate is seamless with a velvety feel to it. So vibrant with an energy and drive that takes it effortlessly to a very long finish. Everything and everything in its place. The intensity of the blackcurrant and red fruit combination is extraordinary, yet it delivers with such finesse and poise. Pretty and at the same time powerful. With a degree of delicacy and grace. A great, great wine”.

99 Points – Ray Jordan

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