Stay in touch with the latest news and happenings at Vasse Felix, in Margaret River and on tour around the world.
Author | Dave Pynt, Chef/Owner, Burnt Ends
I always remember family trips to Margaret River over Christmas, It's hot, dry and you spend most of your time going between vineyards and the beach. We would inevitably always have a long lunch at Vasse Felix and end up drinking some amazing old bottles when it came to main course. It would always amaze me how long Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon can age for and how they retain their structure, flavour and fruit. When the team head to the cellar and pick something special, it is always a treat, but finding out it is the last bottle onsite always leaves a longing for more. I guess that keeps you exploring the cellar to find the hidden gems! We always look forward to the next time and doing some cellar hunting with the team!
With Cabernet, I am always looking for age. It brings out the subtleties, complexity, balance and fruit while softening the tannins. With food, it is really important to soften the tannins so that you avoid overpowering the food. We have found that with grilled meats, drinking wines with tannins increases the astringency in the mouth which can be quite unpleasant. But on that note, grilled meats with nicely aged Cabernets can lead to a harmonious pairing that highlights the flavours on both sides perfectly.
The only thing to add, is that it will always taste better when you are having a BBQ on a hot summer's night in Margies. If people get the opportunity, this is a must-do!
Introducing a commanding and cerebral Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec from an exemplary Margaret River vintage. Or in the words of a local Western Australian critic, “a superstar.”
As always, TOM CULLITY is a pure reflection of the vintage in Margaret River, grown on Tom’s original vines, that were 53 years old at the time of harvest.
2020 began as a warmer season, but cooled soon after the white grape harvest, providing ideal conditions for gentle extended ripening of the Cabernet. Vibrant fruit characters were preserved, forming the wine’s buoyant core, while the tannins matured on the vine, beautifully. The “triple threat” of this release is the concentration of 2020’s lower yield, that produced this hallmark Cabernet of intensity and depth, within a Margaret River framework.
“The foreground of delicious, enticing perfumes and powerful fruit is arresting, but for me it’s how this intensity is interwoven so intricately with savoury elements. While 2020 is the most full-bodied release of the modern TOM CULLITY story, its mellifluous mid-palate and effortless tannins offer so much upon release, with decades ahead,” Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock.
Tom’s old plots were hand-harvested from 6 – 27 March, then wild fermented as whole berries and left on skins for up to 29 days. The wine was basket-pressed and gently transferred to 54% new and 46% old French oak, the portion of old oak complementing the 2020 Cabernet form. The parcels of wine were aged on yeast lees, the barriques relaxing with only minimal requirement for rack and return throughout maturation. After 18 months, the 2020 TOM CULLITY was composed and bottled. This vintage is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot.
2020 was a memorable vintage in more ways than one. With national and regional shutdowns in effect towards the end of harvest, Tom’s Cabernet plots (H, I, J & L) were hand-picked and nurtured through their vinification purely by the permanent Vasse Felix team, including enthusiastic helpers from our wonderful Hospitality crew. The ‘Tom’ is always a wine that unifies everyone at Vasse Felix, and this TOM CULLITY in particular, is very close to our hearts.
This is the eighth release of TOM CULLITY, a living tribute to Dr Tom Cullity’s extraordinary legacy; embodying the pioneering, innovative and brave spirit that led to the establishment of the Margaret River Wine Region.
BY CHIEF VITICULTURIST BART MOLONY & CHIEF WINEMAKER VIRGINIA WILLCOCK
The 2024 vintage in Margaret River will be remembered for its unprecedented early start and rapid pace. Growing Degree Days data indicated from the outset that this vintage would be early, with vines showing health and vigour in spring. Despite initial disbelief, harvest began on 17 January and progressed quickly, with the last of the vines picked on 13 March. This has been a truly remarkable vintage, even with the early start and very warm, consistent conditions, the quality of the fruit is excellent and beyond our expectations.
The vines experienced an accumulation of incredible growing conditions, starting with an early onset to spring which then merged almost directly into summer. Unlike recent years, where spring was often cooler, 2023 was the warmest spring we can remember, with below-average rainfall. Due to this, we experienced early flowering and veraison. The summer was characterised by zero rainfall and sustained warmth, but with no extremes, ensuring the majority of the fruit ripened without damage.
Harvest commenced in mid-January, much earlier than anticipated, with our Wilyabrup Chardonnay. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were highlights of the white harvest, showcasing ideal balance and flavour. Careful timing and precision in harvesting were critical to balance logistics and to ensure all fruit was picked at its optimal ripeness. Yields were slightly lower for our Sauvignon Blanc due to a small amount of sunburn early in its development.
Following the white harvest, we commenced picking the reds the very next day, starting with Shiraz from our northern vineyards. The warm conditions persisted, leading once again to an earlier-than-expected harvest for Cabernet Sauvignon, four weeks earlier than average. The Cabernet fruit is showing beautifully ripe fruit flavours, firm tannins, and great balance.
The red yields were also slightly lower, particularly from vines grown on harder soils with lower moisture retention, which struggled to access sufficient water. However, vine health remained excellent, right through to harvest, with no signs of deterioration. This can be attributed to the resilience of the vines, an earlier harvest and meticulous vineyard practices.
This year the Marri blossom was phenomenal. Nobody we’ve spoken to in the district has ever seen the trees flower as prolifically as they did. The blossom was extraordinary and the smell of honey in the air was quite incredible. This, of course, was great for our vines, keeping bird pressure to almost zero, as the birds favour the nectar of the Marri blossom over the grapes. This abundance also made harvesting our Cane Cut Semillon a more pleasant task as the bees and wasps were nowhere to be seen.
As harvest comes to an end, we are still in shock that it is only the second week of March, it is just so surreal. The 2024 vintage in Margaret River will certainly be one to remember. The early start and rapid pace challenged our viticulturists and winemakers, however a persistent and intense harvest schedule and rigorous attention to detail resulted in wine of astonishing quality. The resilience of the vines in the face of such extraordinary conditions is a testament to the Region’s viticultural prowess.
It's always exciting to enjoy a wine that's been in your cellar for years. You've been patiently waiting to drink this special bottle and you want to be sure it's in the best possible condition when you serve it. Estate Sommelier, Evan Gill, takes us through the process of decanting and its importance for both young and old wines.
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Young, structured and powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, even the most poised, balanced and elegant Margaret River wines, can benefit from decanting in their young age. Through the introduction of oxygen, decanting can help bring to life complex components that have been 'trapped' in the bottle. Allowing oxygen into a young Margaret River Cabernet is like sunlight to a young vine in spring, it helps to open up the beautiful flavour compounds and structural elements of the wine.
Aged wines, 10 years and older, tend to accumulate sediment over time when cellared. Whilst it's an important piece of a good aged Cabernet, it's best to decant these wines before serving to remove the sediment.
Evan's Decanting Tips
1. Stand the bottle upright before decanting so the sediment may fall to the bottom.
2. Pour the wine steadily into your decanter, fast enough to allow a steady stream without causing excessive bubbling of the wine. Stop pouring when the sediment reaches the neck of the bottle.
3. Allow the wine to breathe in the decanter, this can mean anything from a couple of minutes to perhaps one hour. Discretion is advised with older wines (20 years or so) so as to not aerate the wine too much.
4. Taste the wine and watch it come to life!
Author | Loic Avril, Head of Wine, Lucas Group
For me the uniqueness comes from the place that is Margaret River. Not only from a geographical point of view, but also from the region’s emphasis on quality. It’s also the mildness of the climate. Perth is very warm, and you think Western Australia is very warm and dry, but as soon as you're in Margaret River, there's such a picturesque aspect of greenery, and a microclimate that really defines this region. That was what struck me, in terms of Margaret River, and at Vasse Felix.
The factors that make this Cabernet special? First, Vasse Felix are the pioneers, or some of the pioneers of Margaret River, producing early Cabernets and Chardonnays in this part of the world, that define great history. So it’s first, the story. Two, is that the pocket of Margaret River is unique. Three, is the dedication of early pioneers, like Vasse Felix, who encouraged a community of people to grow some of the finest Cabernets and Chardonnays in the world. That for me, is unique.
From my point of view, I really think that by not traveling to this region, you don't understand the Margaret River style. You're only reading Cabernet and Chardonnay. But by visiting the region, you really see why Margaret River or Vasse Felix Cabernets are some of the finest in the world. This is the way I look at it.
I think in terms of vintages, I think '93, '94, '97 would be some of my vintages to look at in the catalogue of all vintages. The vintages in the 90s, for me, are the key vintages that really show that [Margaret River Cabernet] is age worthy. They have such great acidity, and low alcohol, that sometimes we're not expecting from Australia. Also, just the quality, the beauty, and there’s an element of ‘Bordeaux-esque’ that is there. You don't see it in a glass in other Cabernet that I see, from let's say South Australia or even in the old days in Victoria. So yes, '93, '94, '97 will be some of the key vintages I will look for.
Why do I like to introduce Margaret River? First and foremost, a key reason would be as a Cabernet for wine drinkers that love Bordeaux or Napa. And two, because these wines are great for a consumer to buy early, keep in their cellars and age for years. They’re going to always deliver the best aspects of what you can see in Bordeaux, or perhaps what you can see in Burgundy for Chardonnay.
There's a good acidity level in the wines, a great tannin structure, and I think there is a broader diversity of vineyard, aspect, and geology in this region, that really brings Margaret River to be unique, in my opinion.
What is also very important to consider, is that in Margaret River, they are not scared to look at the new days and experimentation, for example with the no-oak movement. Grapes that are grown in Margaret River really show your oak influence and how it shapes a wine, and I think there’s not many regions that are trying to challenge that. And I think Vasse Felix is one of the key wineries, where they’re really looking outside of the box, at how to produce wines with less interventions, showcasing the value of raw or naked grapes, out of the vines.
Author | Yuki Hirose MS, Sommelier, Lucas Group
Whenever I hear the name of Vasse Felix, Virginia pops up in my head because I associate the wines with her – she’s been there forever and is inspiring with her conversation and energy. I still remember at Rockpool, years ago when I first met her, and I didn’t know much, thinking that the wines are great, but how she talks about regions and philosophies sticks in my mind quite clearly. She always brings the same energy, and I always learn something new. Even if I already know it, hearing from Virginia brings it to life.
Margaret River Cabernet is great value. It’s got consistency. Yes, there is vintage variation, but overall, each winery has established styles, however it’s always consistent, which is good for a person dining in a restaurant. In Margaret River I trust the producers, I know what to expect, and the wines deliver. You could say that is predictable, but I think to consistently produce high quality at a moderate price point is something not many regions can do.
Australia is a Shiraz-driven country, and Cabernet Malbec comes second. I am much more excited by Margaret River than other regions. It’s not small, but not big. I quite like the Cabernet. If I have the choice of Shiraz or Cabernet, 9 times out of 10, I’ll jump on Cabernet.
More on 50 Years of Margaret River Cabernet here.
Last Thursday marked the first pick of the original Tom's Blocks. A beautiful sunrise greeted our pickers early morning in our I Block old-vine Cabernet and the quality looks fantastic.
Grown on their original rootstocks on the ancient Ironstone gravel soils of our Home Vineyard, these vines have weathered all the grape-growing years known to Margaret River and remain strong with consistent yields and berries.
These old vines are our trusted indicator of quality for Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. Their experience of the vintage plays a crucial role in guiding the direction of each release of TOM CULLITY Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec.
Author | Evan Gill, Estate Sommelier Vasse Felix
In May 2017, I was fortunate enough to be involved in the very special 50th anniversary celebrations at Vasse Felix.
I will never forget the events of Saturday 6 May.
With Paul Holmes à Court welcoming guests on the lawn, I positioned myself inside The Vault museum entrance. My task was to open, taste and decant four bottles of the 1979 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon (coincidentally my birth year vintage), perfectly timed with the entrance of the guests from the lawn.
Four bottles from one of Margaret River's most lauded early vintages.
I set about my task with Paul's welcoming address just making 'earfall' thanks to the sea breeze.
Four bottles, four perfect corks, four incredible sips of a wine that had aged so beautifully. Pure elegance but still so 'present' and alive.
I poured the glasses as the welcome wrapped up and could not wipe the smile from my face as I served guests walking into The Vault, the place where it all began.
The experience was elevated further when David Gregg, winemaker from 1972 until 1989 (and owner from 1984 - 1987) walked in the door.
Along with David there was also a veritable who's who of WA wine.
The quality of these bottles and the guests I poured them for made Saturday 6 May 2017 one of my most memorable wine experiences.
Heritage, provenance, quality and celebration all rolled into one moment, and one wine.
More on 50 Years of Margaret River Cabernet here.
A glorious Margaret River day greeted pickers last week in our Gnarawary Vineyard as they hand harvested our precious plots of Icon and Premier grade Gingin clone Chardonnay.
Pristine bunches of Gingin (our heritage Margaret River clone) Chardonnay were picked in the GYD1 and GYE1 plots, the latter of which helps to establish the beautifully precise line and length of our Heytesbury Chardonnay.
Hand harvested, these parcels were then chilled and whole bunches pressed, before being transferred with full solids to premium French oak barriques for wild fermentation. More to come soon.
Author | Freddy Bulmer, Wine Buyer, The Wine Society
For me, wine is first and foremost about people. Whether that’s the people you share a bottle with or the people who helped to produce it. One of the great joys of working in this industry is sitting around a table while a bottle provides the perfect backdrop for chat, laughter and doubtless some form of inspiration for a hare-brained plan…
I have been lucky enough to drink Vasse Felix wines on numerous occasions and every single time has been a treat, whether it’s a memorable back vintage of chardonnay or any opportunity to taste TOM CULLITY, however it’s on the day that I am writing this that I have been lucky enough to share a particularly delicious bottle of the Cabernet Sauvignon in my kitchen at home, with a couple of dear colleagues.
The wine world ebbs and flows. Or it seems to for me anyway. There are periods of great productivity and frantic energy, preceding or following moments of lethargy and vacuums of enthusiasm. A two week period of the latter was bought to an uplifting full-stop today thanks to a pre-released bottle of 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine who’s vibrant energy, plush fruit and luxuriousness catapulted me face-first into a tidal wave of excitement, uplift and much needed inspiration. Conversation with my lunch guests flowed like a river as we drank this bottle; ideas ignited like flames and once again, all was right in the world of wine. Or at least my own little world of wine.
To me this is an example of the power of good wine. That bottle played every bit as much of an important part in a humble lunch as any of the rest of us around the table. Perhaps even more, as it was the catalyst and driving force we needed and the treat that we all felt we deserved.
More on 50 Years of Margaret River Cabernet here.
As is tradition, we christened the beginning of vintage with a bacon and egg roll at the annual vintage breakfast this morning. The perfect opportunity for our vintage crew to settle in, meet the broader Vasse Felix team and share stories of vintages past and present, from wine regions around the world. The action began early last week, with the first hand harvest of our Gibraltar Chardonnay blocks, more on that here.
Thank you to everyone who has signed up for the all-important job of picking and nurturing our 2024 harvest. We look forward to sharing more behind-the-scenes vintage action over the coming weeks.